Morbier
General information about the Morbier
Raw cow's milk
Family : Uncooked hard cheese
Origin : Jura, Doubs, Saône-et-Loire, Ain (France)
Cheese feature
Shape : Cylindrical with a flat top and bottom and slightly convex sides
Height : 5 to 8 cm
Diameter : 30 to 40 cm
Weight : 5 to 8 kg
Fat content % : 28%
Difficulties of fabrication
A characteristic of Morbier is that it requires regular rind rubbing whilst maturing in the cellar. For a large-scale production, robot perform this function.
Morbier's production
This characteristic cheese, with a black line through the middle, was created by Frankish-Comtois farmers. When there was insufficient raw milk to make a large cheese the farmers covered the curd with a thin layer of ash protecting the curd whilst waiting for the next milk delivery. The second curd was superimposed on the first curd so the finished cheese has a black horizontal stripe in the middle.
Raw milk is warmed to around 30°C. Depending upon the fat content of the milk some of it will be skimmed and then re-mixed with whole milk to achieve the desired fat content. Cultures are added to the warmed milk so that it matures, and rennet is then added to curdle the milk.
As soon as they are firm enough the curd-slices are stirred until the grains are the size of a hazelnut. After settling in the vat some of the whey can be removed by pumping. The acidity can be regulated during production by adding water (salted or not).
Then the mixture is drawn off and moulded, either in equipment also used in Compté production, or a pre-pressing table. The pre-pressing allows the curd grains to bind together facilitating moulding. The curd cake is cut into sections and then cut in half horizontally with the help of a wire cheese harp. The first half is placed in the Morbier mould and its surface coated manually with charcoal ash made from vegetable matter. The second half is placed on top. The casein identification plate is attached to the inner edge of the mould. The moulds are then pressed for 3 to 7 hours.
The cheeses are then removed from the moulds and refrigerated. In order to stop the acidification and to form a good rind the young cheese is brined in salted water for 2 to 12 hours. Once removed, the young Morbiers are installed on spruce wood board to drain and dry. Matured in the cellar for at least 45 days the Morbiers are regularly rubbed with brine. The aromas will develop thanks to the spruce boards, the cool temperature (7 to 12°C) and the ambient humidity greater than 90%.
We now have a cheese with a beige to orange rind, ivory to pale yellow body with some small scattered holes and the famous horizontal black stripe. Of soft texture, the Morbier has lactic flavours, caramel, vanilla and fruit. As it matures, it reveals roasted, spicy and distinctive flavours from the boards
Our advice
The ash must be applied manually. For evenness of distribution a wide brush can be used.
To control the brining process, the cheeses can be placed in plastic boxes then submerged simultaneously with a hoist. This makes the brining process easier to carry out.
To find out more about making this cheese or similar cheeses and the necessary equipment, contact us.
Photo : CNIEL